Day 8 – Wed, 2 Jan 2008, Marrakech (Morocco)

Got up not feeling too well but no weird dream to mention of or remember. Do feel like a cold coming on, though – feeling cold and nosed rather blocked. Oh btw the journal is behind big time. Updating now on Wed, 23 Jan 2008 and I have not been keeping any record of each day’s activities so I’m likely to miss a lot. Oh well, better than nothing so back to 2 Jan

Met the friendly stall owner on our way out. He again answered some questions we had, mainly about where to find a forex place and a super market as we figured we needed to get some food for the onward journey.

Found a bank with forex. Bit of a queue. Notably no security at all and I really mean nothing. You queue and when your turn comes we stand at a counter with a man behind it. No screen separating you at all despite large sums of money being handled. Decidedly refreshing. Continued on our way and bought some dodgy ray-ban sun glasses for DM40. Popped into an internet shop to do some admin things then headed for Gueliz (New Town).

Walked around and found what could be best described as a tavern. It was the fullest drinking establishment we had come across yet so we decided to stay for a drink. As we walked in to our surprise we noticed a couples ladies sitting around. Admittedly they looked somewhat like regulars. We proceeded to the rear of the place which was like a hall filled with table and chairs and men drinking beers. Stayed for a round or 2 before moving on as we still needed to find this elusive supermarket. Oh the reason for wanting this one is that it sells alcohol. We found some “bottle-stores”/”off licences” but, they didn’t have cold beer and their prices were steep, DM8-10 for a Super Flag “cup of tea”.

While in the best “off-licence” we asked about a super market and were told it’s just further along the road which was by now near the end of the road. We decided to get the groceries before the booze so headed for the super market. At last we found it. It was fairly well stocked so we took it aisle by aisle starting with the booze. Stocked up with some 50cl Super Flag – thank goodness they come in such measures and a bottle of VAT 69. We got some groceries like tin fish, bread, chilli sauce of course, pasta, tomatoes, oil, onions, water etc. It wasn’t too much. After paying we took some id photos at the automated machine. Nearly forgot the water (5l) but remembered as we left. As we had quite a few parcels we headed back to Rhiad 34. Dropped off our goods, had a beer and headed out to eat. It was back to the food market in the Medina Square. On the way we stopped at the bar we were at last night to see if the band we met will be there. Not only were they not there but the place was shut so we continued on to the Square.

Started off at stall 118 – the sheep head stall. Stall owners remembered us. Like last night the meat was good. Only difference this time was that we paid DM20 each. We were kind of told it was because last night we came by late when the price is lowered to try sell the remaining produce. While we ate one of the sheep heads on display was dissected by one of the stall workers and I couldn’t help but notice the look on a lady’s face sitting across the stall from us. She kind of sat back and pulled her face a bit. I guessed like us she will not be sampling the sheep head. After one portion of mutton we moved on. I was wanting some grilled calamari. Another difference about tonight was that the stall owners were significantly more active in luring customers to their stall. We found a seafood one and sat down. We were given a menu. I ordered the grilled calamari and mixed fish special and Rey went for shrimps. As we waited we were presented with bread which we tucked into.

A little while later olives were placed on our table which I tucked to as I like olives and a while later salad arrived. Both Rey and I got suspicious as we hadn’t asked for these things. We looked at the menu and noticed that each unsolicitored item had a price. Basically their tactic is to place unordered food on the table of unsuspecting patrons and charge you if you indulge. Fortunately we picked up on this and asked for the salad to be returned and for no more surprise dishes. Our food arrived soon after and I enjoyed my calamari. The mixed fish wasn’t the best. Not sure what fish it was. The one was somewhat tough, almost like red meat and rather bony but I gobbled it all. While sitting we noticed the behaviour of the stall workers as people walked by. They would approach people and literally pull them to one of the benches and a person was about to sit, albeit somewhat forcibly, they would then all clap and cheer to draw attention to you and their stall. I guess it was to make you less inclined to get and leave while also attracting the attention of other passer-bys. It worked on some people. Another tactic was to hone in on the lady if there was a couple. I guess the lady will offer less resistance to their virtual physical persuasion and also the man at some point may have to go help out his lady and they then have the couple nearly on seat. I really don’t like such hassling but it’s par for the course here. After our fish we both felt somewhat satisfied and tired and me battling with the effects of a cold so decided to call it a night. On the way back to Rhiad 34 we stopped at an orange juice stall.

The stall has a high glass counter that is packed with oranges. The stall owner saw us approaching as potential customers and before we got to his stall he had poured 2 glasses of “orange” juice. We took a good taste each and both found it very tasty, almost sweet. I thought damn!!! Oranges in Marrakech and really great I should buy some especially that I don’t feel too well. In fact oranges seem so plenty full that oranges line the streets with oranges on the trees. I would wonder who picks them and more significantly while passing pedestrians don’t pick them. Honestly the trees stand about 2-3 metres high and the oranges can be picked by a kid they in such easy reach. Instead it appeared the oranges are left to fall off and rot. Anyway I had some more of my “orange” juice and the taste was soo good that I suspected a different kind of fruit but couldn’t place it. Anyway we finished and asked how much it was and I think it was DM20 each. WOH!!! That much. We then noticed a sign above the stall somewhat obscured by an overhanging material awning stating, “Orange juice – DM3/glass” so why we being charged DM20. Well our “orange” juice was actually mandarin / naartjie juice. That made so much sense and now I knew the taste. The stall owner was generous enough to pop out to the back of his stall and pull out 3 mandarins from large container of mandarins. Well it’s the least he could give us after scamming us. By now we had been joined by one of  locals who picked up that we thought we had orange juice only to point out that the oranges are horrible and I would like the juice. Go figure nobody picks them from the many trees lining the streets. Well even though I don’t feel too well guess I will not be buying any oranges in Marrakech.

As it was not too late when we got back to Rhiad 34. We sat in our room sipping on our beers, listening to music from the laptop and downloaded our photos. After some 3 beers each we hit the sack. This time I slept with the duvet while Rey used his sleeping bag.